The Winds of Change in Avignon
So I turned 28 on Friday 3rd February. It was one of those days I will treat as a turning point in my life. A day that symbolises the person I'm becoming, how life should feel and what I really want for my future. But we'll talk about that in part two. Today, let's just take a walk around the city and discover how beautiful it all is.
Photo by Marni V Photography
I chose Avignon as my birthday town on the back of a friend's recommendation. I knew nothing about it before I arrived, but was enchanted by its ancient atmosphere and quaint architecture.
After a fresh breakfast of smoked trout, scrambled eggs and berries (made myself), I trotted onto the streets bright and early for my first appointment: a facial at NovaSpa just on the otherside of the wall.
Wall? Yep, Avignon is a walled city. They tend to appear quite often in my travels as many will know that Óbidos in Portugal is one of my favourite places. In the confines of the ancient wall lies everything, from historical palaces and ornate hotels to buses with usb plug points and a makeup store with every shade. I loved the juxtaposition of teenagers in hip hop clothing nattering in the neighborhoods of flaky paint and brass handle doors. The old and the progressive marries perfectly here.
My facial left me glowing and inspired. Inspired because in our conversation in broken french, the facialist told me there was a writer's festival in the town starting that day. I thanked her, and while sitting for my second breakfast (a crepe and a hot chocolate) signed up for a workshop in the afternoon.
But first, to see the Pope.
Well maybe not the Pope, but a Pope's Palace. The Palace des Papes d'Avignon is the main attraction in the town apart from the bridge (we'll get there). It's a medieval building where grandeur meets piety. What I was most struck by the painted rooms which you can't take photos of. Not even a sneaky one. After I left the painted rooms, a black security guard chirped good morning to me as he swiftly ran passed me to evacuate a Spanish couple who had broken this rule.
The painted rooms were Benedict XII's private quarters in the 1330s.
They looked like something off of my Pinterest board.
Truly! You tell me that these don't give off the same vibe. That surely proves I have expensive taste if nothing else.
(Palace room photo by the tourism office. Pinterest photo by Justina Blakeney)
After being even more inspired by the medieval castle, I found a place in the centre of town for lunch called Maison Ripert. It wasn't where I planned to go but I loved the dark decor and the maître d was easy on the eyes.
Shot of butternut squash soup
Spinach "cake" with pickled pear
Filet mignon with spinach and fennel mousse, baby carrots and red wine jus
Lemon meringue (with a candle for my birthday)
Peach Kir Royale
€41
A delicious lunch always gives me a spring in my step. I bought a little birthday cake for myself and bounced along to the writer's workshop.
It's pretty brave to sit in a room for a French lecture when your French is rudimentary at best. I did have a pang of regret when I walked into the Hotel Ville d'Avignon, with its intimidating regal décor, to participate in my own befuddlement for an hour. But when I walked in the room, my fears were disarmed.
Below the swirling gold appliqué and arched windows was a group of around eighty 80 year olds. Well, maybe they weren't all 80, but I'd say the average age was 71.
A lady named Yvette sat beside me, a silver haired woman with gentle eyes and a narrow pale face. We became fast friends. She helped me with unfamiliar words and recommended places in the South of France I should add to my list while exploring here.
I told her I enjoyed Avignon.
She sighed, "yes but the wind!"
Avignon as a town dates back to the Neolithic period and was named after the Greek word "Auenionites" in the 6th century BC. "Auenionites" means "city of violent wind".
And this wind...
Avignon has the kind of wind that throws tables, chairs and small animals into the air. I had the pleasure of dancing in the wind the day before for my annual facetime birthday shoot with Marni V Photography, where its violence became a feature of the photos.
Walking across the famous Avignon bridge was more than an act of bravery. It took stamina and core strength to keep my feet on the ground!
So if Avignon doesn't blow you away, it's not for lack of trying.
My night ended with a dinner at a place I don't necessarily recommend. The food was nice. The ambiance was nice. The cat was nice. The owners...not so much. Not unpleasant but not particularly pleasant either. So let's move on to the main event.
My final stop of the day was a little unorthodox. Rather than be a tourist all day, I wanted to do something... normal. So I booked myself in for a pole dancing session just outside of the city.
Sitting in a lecture in French is one thing. Having a pole dancing lesson in French is quite another. But I loved it! The teacher, Franck, was patient and supportive. I loved talking to the other girls about pole dancing and places they recommend visiting in France. Franck also let me know which of the cities on my roster have pole dancing schools should I want to maintain my practice during my travels, which I certainly do.
And that was my 28th birthday. In the amber embrace of Avignon, I turned another year older. I thank the people (and cat) I encountered for making me feel welcomed and seen. It was a wonderful experience and I can't wait to return.
I highly recommend Avignon as a charming spot to learn more of French history, eat well, and be surprised every day.
Ta ta for now,
Olivia
Photo by Marni V Photography
