True Valentine in Clermont Ferrand

I've spent many Valentine's days alone. Put your tiny violins away. You've gathered by now that "solo" is not a dirty word here.

But this Valentine's day I was particularly delicate. My breakup was fresh. Geneva was rough. And I'd almost died that day driving on the wrong side of the road on a dual carriageway (story for another day).

This Valentine's day, I was blue.

Unacceptable. No one makes *me* blue on the trip of a lifetime.

So on a whim I booked a penthouse hotel and created my perfect Valentine's day in the macabre town of Clermont Ferrand.

Let me tell you about this gothic wonder. Located dead centre of France, Clermont Ferrand draws in fascination from local and international travellers alike.

Soot and glamour rarely go together but here it works. There's an elegance to the black trim of the buildings amidst the hum of Clermont-Ferrand's café culture.

The focal point? The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption of Clermont-Ferrand.

Crafted with volcanic lava stone, it was first conceived in the 5th century and built in its current form in the 13th century by a renegade bishop Hughes de la Tour. He wanted to assert his surpremacy over the diocese in the region. And what better way than with a cathedral that remixes the essence of "purity" in piety.

Black interior. Black exterior. Electric stained glass windows. This was my kind of church.

Under the cathedral's looming dominion, I chose to treat myself like royalty. A huge bubble bath with scented candles abound and romantic music. A huge sourdough pizza that I resisted finishing in one go. (I was unsuccessful. That pizza was goooooood.) I watched a movie and fell asleep blissfully early.

The next morning, I had a long conversation with the hotelier about life in France. We talked about the different regions, renter's life, health care, taxes. All in French. He was impressed at my ability to keep up. Me too. My confidence was flourishing with each passing day.

And that's what this Clermont Ferrand taught me. To be brave. Dare to be as alien and audacious as a lava black cathedral. Although people will struggle to understand, eventually you'll be impossible to ignore.

Ta ta for now,

Olivia

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Frozen in Geneva