Sunshine and San Valero in Zaragoza
Have you ever woken up pissed off? The feeling that you've woken up on the wrong side of the bed. It didn't help that my hotel breakfast was not included in my rate as expected, and my supply of brioche croissants had become husks of themselves.
Subsisting on an apple and a handful of nuts, I escaped Toledo and set course for Zaragoza.
It was another bright day with clear roads. I shuffled through every audio book I could to find a voice I didn't want to strangle. Every message or phone call irritated me. I was simply OFF.
When I got to Zaragoza, I was greeted by my Airbnb host and her cat, Mario. Mario sniffed at my clothes for two minutes before promptly rubbing on all of my possessions. I had been adopted.
I managed to do some light work with him on my lap. Not a productive partner but the cuddles lifted my mood a little.
After a nap, I fought tooth and nail to get myself going. The self criticism swirled. My irritation rose. I hated everything and everyone and myself and this trip is stupid and...
*gurgle gurgle*
... I'm not cut out to be a travel writer...
*Gurgle Gurgle*
... I'll call this day a write off...
*GURGLE GURGLE GURGLE GURGLE*
Oh... I'm hungry!
After quickly searching for a nearby restaurant, I slapped on some makeup and braved the -1 degree (celsius) night. The city hummed with friendly tittle tattle. People of all ages were on the streets, with drinks flowing and buoyant joy.
By the time I got to the restaurant, I had a spring in my step too. It helped that the waiters at Cantina El Prior treated me so well. The sound of lyrical conversations around me and the faint thump of a nightclub nearby cradled my anxious mind as I finally sat for a meal.
1. Artichokes with jamón
2. Pork cheeks with wedges
3. Mango sorbet
4. Half a bottle of red wine
€24. Can't argue with that.
With my belly full, I made it back to the Airbnb excited by the possibilities of the morning. And it was more than I could have hoped for.
The sun rose on Sunday and I was already outside. Determined to take my camera off auto mode for the first time, I explored the city with fresh eyes.
(So you'll likely see a shift in the photography in the daylight photos. My friend gifted me a photography course that has taught me so much!)
(I asked the man for permission for these photos by the way!)
When I got to the main square, I saw lengthy queues outside the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar - the ornate building that characterises the place. A strapping policeman with a frosty button nose told me it was San Valero day today. San Valero is the patron saint of Zaragoza. To celebrate, it's tradition to give out Roscón de Reyes (King's Cake). Yes I absolutely took a piece too!
My final stop was at a souvenir shop to purchase two postcards. The lady explained to me that although San Valero day was 29th January every year, the party would really begin tomorrow so that everyone had the day off. I told her in my broken Spanish that today was my last day but I would return next year. It surprised me; I truly meant those words.
Perhaps it was the good will of San Valero in the air. Perhaps it was because when I ducked into a café to warm up, I was offered churros and chocolate for breakfast. Perhaps it was because northerners in many countries (I've found) are just nice. But I can honestly say I felt at home here.
Energised and inspired, I left Zaragoza with my heart and belly full. So Feliz Dia de San Valero! Here's to brighter days.
Ta ta for now,
Olivia
