In The "Ghetto" In Marseille
I was warned.
I was warned by the internet, by loved ones, and by clickbait YouTubers, that Marseille was the ghetto. Notorious as the most dangerous city in France, they advise that you stay vigilant in Marseille, particularly in the old part of town, Le Panier.
So as I drove into the port city, I decided I would pay for parking in a designated security ladened car park and leave my camera behind. Instead, I would make do with smartphone photos. And in fairness, my eyelids were so heavy that day, I didn't have the energy to argue with my camera's misguided autofocus.
Yes, I was getting tired. It had been 9 days on the road, and although I had slept well every night, the long drives and consistent translating was starting to catch up with me.
So probably not the best state to go wandering around "the ghetto" of France.
I parked my car by the old port and walked out onto the water. Yachts and fishing boats lined the marina, with the deep navy water sloshing below. It certainly felt like a seaside town. The faint fishy smell. The salty taste in the wind. The hoards of crowds in search of better weather.
It was measurably milder here than it was in Avignon. It was 14 degrees but felt warmer in the sun's glow. And it seemed that the whole of France had come to Marseille to catch some of that sun. I dread to think what it would be like in the summer.
After around an hour around the waterfront, I climbed up to Le Panier to face the danger head on.
But first brunch. You can't fight bad guys on an empty stomach.
Granola cup with passion fruit and pear
Eggs Benedict
Chai latte
Fresh lemonade
Honey pear dessert
€25
I climbed up a narrow alleyway to my impending doom. The walls were yellow with graffiti all over. Wilting Tradescantia and succulents sat in window boxes. As I reached the top of the street and onto the main lanes, it dawned on me why this area is perceived as "the ghetto".
Black people.
That's literally it.
Melanated mothers with their young walking to their humble abodes. Dark skinned men speaking loudly on the phone as they pass you.
It frustrates me that any "urban" area is automatically labelled as sketchy, simply because black people reside there.
Let me tell you what Le Panier really is. It's an old neighborhood modernised with black art. Graffiti murals and African masks. Impressive floral displays and colourful clothing. If that's scary to you, I don't know what to tell you.
Of course, be respectful of the residents here and be as vigilant as you normally would, but as a solo female that weighs nothing, I can tell you I didn't feel my spider senses tingling even once.
Overall Marseille is vibrant and cosmopolitan. I saw every type of person, a wide demographic mix. Seaside towns are quite lost on me as I've never been a huge fan of the sea. But if you want a balmy climate and enjoy the seaside life, it's a solid recommendation from me.
Ta ta for now,
Olivia
